About a thousand years ago a newly fertilized Douglas Fir cone split open, strewing it’s seeds into the wind. Eventually, one of those seeds found it’s way onto the ground of an ancient forest floor and started it’s long journey to giant tree-hood.
In 2011, logger Dennis Cronin was routinely surveying a forest near Port Renfrew, when he came across this tree. There was something about this one giant fir that prompted him to wrap a green ribbon around it’s base with the words “Leave Tree” written on it. A year later, when the logging was complete, the site of a clear cut with just one beautiful majestic tree left standing became an iconic symbol for local conservationists.
T.J Watt, a photographer, environmentalist and campaigner for the Ancient Forest Alliance gave the giant his moniker in 2014.
This month we finally made the trek to visit Big Lonely Doug.
Big Lonely Doug
I first heard about Doug when I picked up a book by the same title in a gift shop in Port Renfrew. Written by Harley Rustad, Big Lonely Doug traces the forestry industry in BC and chronicles the story of the turbulent old growth logging industry in this Province. The book has elevated Big Doug’s reputation to an international audience.
I have tried to visit Big Doug a few times over the past few years. The first time we drove out was July of 2021, during the height of the turbulent Fairy Creek old growth protests. We were stopped by an intimidating presence of RCMP officers, some on ATVs patrolling the area. Our knapsacks were checked for contraband – toilet paper and peanut butter to sustain the activists. We were told to show IDs and our names were recorded.
Personally I wanted to hike right past the blockades. Not only would my arrest be great for my blog, my name would become a statistic as an activist willing to risk imprisonment to save the trees. I envisioned Tucker in little puppy handcuffs. What a great photo that would make. Unfortunately we were with a couple of new immigrants, for who arrest would be just a tad more complicated.
The next time we came looking we first made the very long and bumpy drive into Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park. After a full day of that trip, and a failed attempt to navigate the logging roads all the way to Port Renfrew, my driver (and husband) finally refused to keep going.
This time I sweetened the proposal to Ray by promising him brunch at Shirley Delicious on the way. Needless to say we found the tree, and yes, it’s worth the trip.
Big Lonely Doug is no longer living in a clear cut. The area around him has been replanted and the surrounding trees are now taller than people.
Doug is still a stark contrast to the surrounding immature forest, and still draws the attention of the world.
Getting There
Big Lonely Doug lives about 20 k northeast of Port Renfrew. The access is along active logging roads. Drive with appropriate caution. A 4X4 is recommended to get right up to the trailhead. We decided to save our tires and park about a kilometre away and walk the last bit.
As we drove deeper and deeper into the forest Ray noted, “This is the kind of trip we could disappear on.” But this is Vancouver Island. I thought “Sure it feels remote but when we get there, I bet we’ll see 50 trucks parked.” Just as I said that, a Toyota 4X4 came barreling up behind us. Ray had to pull over to let him pass. So not 50 trucks but we did see half a dozen, on a Wednesday afternoon in March. We met a group of ladies who had walked almost 10k in. We gave them a lift in the buckie on the way back.
Like us, you can google directions to the trailhead before leaving Port Renfrew. There is no cell service once you leave town, so make sure you’ve mapped it before you leave.
The trailhead sign is a bit obscure, but look for a biffie on the hill directly across the road from it. Once you arrive, the hike in is less than 100 metres, but steep and rooted. Wear hiking boots.
Google Directions
Avatar Grove
One could imagine what a forest full of Dougs might have looked like before logging OR one could stop in at Avatar Grove. This little hike, in the same area as Big Lonely Doug, is a beautiful stand of ancient giant trees, left for the express purpose of observing what has been lost.
Currently it’s closed, presumably for “environmental” reasons. I’m not sure what exactly that means, I clearly don’t have much trust in the authorities. Maybe they don’t want you to see what’s been lost, or maybe there’s storm damage that has made it inaccessible. Hopefully by the time you go out it will be reopened.
The battle for old growth forests goes back decades. Much has been won, but much has also been lost. Big Lonely Doug stands as an icon for all those working diligently to promote a sustainable forestry industry in British Columbia.
I love that you went.
Can’t wait to hear about your adventure when your in next.