April 20, 2026 Day 8 – Siena to Pont d’Arabia 26.6 kms
The early morning out of Siena began with the scent of fresh rain and wet cobble stone streets. I didn’t hear the storm the night before from my little windowless room. Lured in by a bakery playing “All That Jazz”, I strolled out of town with a chocolate croissant in my hand. This is becoming my Italian morning tradition.
The gates of these ancient cities are called ports. As I passed through Siena’s south port, Porta Romana, I met Beatra and John. Beatra is of Polish decent but the two are South Africans and both speak English. Sometimes that’s the only prerequisite for friendship on a trip like this but somehow we seemed to have a lot in common. Beatra and I walked together for the next 18 kms, while John dutifully followed behind us. The company, the views and the relatively flat terrain made for a quick jaunt. Unfortunately they were stopping before me so I finished my day alone.
Pont d’Arabia has nothing but a bar and a Farmacia – both of which I made use of. My room in Affittacamere Martelli is a lovely private affair, right beside the bar with a view of the River Sorra.
After my shower and Ray chat I took a walk through town. I found Vaseline for my feet at the Farmacia as I’d run out of the glide I packed from my last Camino, and bought wine and pizza from the bar to take back to my room. By 7 PM I was back home and in my pajamas.
My journal entry for the day finished thus “This VF is absolutely fabulous!” with a scribbled happy face.
April 21 Day 9 Pont d’Arbia – Torrenier 17.3 kms
Spanish farmers are ARTISTS! I may be repeating myself but this walk just gets more and more beautiful as I go.
I feel my body getting stronger; the hills are easier, the miles shorter. I arrived at my destination way too early today.
I’m meeting people: Katja and Miroslav from Slovenia who pretty much live on bicycles, Elena from Germany, a young law student who hikes in the Alps regularly (she le
ft me in her dust). Most of the pilgrims I meet today are walking further, to San Quirico d’Orcia and I kind of wish I were too. I underestimated my abilities and then couldn’t find a room at the last minute. Where everyone stopped for lunch I was done for the day, and when I say everyone I do mean a crowd. There was a tour group of sorts lunching at the only open cafe in town. In hindsight it was kind of nice when the horde moved on.
April 22 Day 10 Torrenieri-Galina 26 km
Tough day today. Hills, hills hills – feeling like a 20 year old though I’m campaigning to ban mirrors.
San Quirico d’Orcia
8.4 km into today’s hike is the Unesco World Heritage historical city of San Quirico d’Orcia. Like Siena, the church bells rang just as I got to the gate. It’s like Italy is welcoming me at every turn. I didn’t stay here because I couldn’t find reasonable accommodations but also because these famous cities tend to be quite touristy. This one is worth a visit though. I visited every church in town, got caught up in a Sport Fiat commercial and ate in a lively bar full of actors and directors from the ad shoot. I lit a candle here for my friend Sue who is back home fighting for her life. Then I strolled out of town.
There are two German girls on the trail with their dog. Dogs are allowed on the trains here with just a leash. How civilized! These three are camping in the vineyards. When I asked if I could take their photo they made me wait until the dog was well posed.
The next 18 kms are grueling, always either up or down with some very long steep sections. I walked through Bagni Vignoni, home of some rather nice looking commercial hotsprings. I had thought I might plan my rest day here until some fellow on Facebook suggested Bagni San Felippe instead. I’d not have known what I missed as the latter is off the trail and I never would have seen it, but it was good advice.
I’m looking for a grocery store. Even a convenience store might do. I have a rest day coming up with a full kitchen and no restaurants. I desperately need some groceries. There is nothing!
There is a kind farmer on this long tiring stretch that has installed a refreshment cupboard, complete with espresso machine! He has even left a stamp out for my pilgrim passport. For some reason, this kindness near the end of a very long day makes me cry with gratefulness. I hope he knows how he is appreciated.
I feel confident there will be a food store in Galina but there is not. There is nothing but a deli sandwich for dinner, but my dorm room turns into a private room due to the rudeness of two cyclists who just didn’t bother to show up for their reservation.
April 23 Day 11 Galina to Bagni San Fellipe ~8 kms walking and a bus
It was about 4 AM when the idea hit me. I was told the nearest grocery store to my rest day location of Bagni San Fellippe is about 5 kms away in the modern city of Abbadia. Why don’t I see if I can’t take a bus to Abbadia from here and then walk the rest of the way. The hot springs are off the trail anyway so I wouldn’t be missing any of the Via Francigena. Google Maps is a wonderful, but sometimes disappointing app. Tonight it tells me that I should be able to walk across the street and catch a bus to Abbadia at 7:40 AM. The walk from there would be 7.4 kms. My plan was hatched.
At 7:40 AM exactly the bus stopped for me. I tapped my phone to pay the fare, as per Googles advice and there I was, maybe on a bus to Abbadia. No one spoke English so… Slowly the bus filled but when we reached the city it didn’t stop. I wanted to get off but the locals, seeing my backpack and concern mimed my worries away (a bit). Everyone eventually got off at the same stop. Everyone then lined up at the bar for a shot of espresso and croissant. Who was I to argue? I am becoming Italian.
The grocery store was a bit of a walk, but in the right direction. I went a little c
razy, wondering how I would carry everything I was buying but somehow I crammed it all into my pack. The walk to the hot springs was all along a minor highway with a good shoulder. I spent the time singing the first two lines of every old song I knew. Eventually I got out my cell phone and streamed music to sing to. It was the most enjoyable highway walk I’ve encountered so far.
My beautiful cottage, Il Bollore House was right off the highway just steps away from the trail to the hot springs. I arrived too early to check in but as luck has been on this trip, the cleaner was just about to leave and she let me in early. The place is more than advertised.
This is going to be one wonderful rest day. I unpacked my groceries and poured a glass of wine.
