Day 22, May 4
22.7 k
Not the guidebook nor on-line guidance prepares one for this final day of the Via Francigena. Cicerone actually advises taking a bus to avoid the busy highway. What a mistake that would have been. Thank you to the pilgrims I met that went ahead and sent me much better advice to walk it in.
My day does start out along the busy Via Cassia, which seems only to be able to manage a sidewalk on one side of the road at a time. There’s a lot of crossing the street for the first hour or two. There are crosswalks but one must be both aware and a little bit bold here, as the cars only stop for you if you walk out in front of them.
At one point I walked into a cafe, shot espresso like a true Italian and kept walking, with a pistachio croissant in hand. I will miss this lifestyle.
There are rumours that at least one of the parks the trail traverses is closed due to a rock 
slide but that is either old or misleading information. My first park is La Insughurata Nature Reserve. I leave the busy road to traverse the beautiful quiet path through the park. The sounds of cars and trucks are replaced with the chirping of birds. There are a few places where the trail is slightly rough, as if it has been recently repaired.
From one park to another, I next reach Reserva Naturale di Monte Mario, whose meandering paths feature ever more dramatic views of Rome. I take way too may pictures here, deleting the last ones as new views emerge around every corner. I met an English couple here heading to Canterbury. On day 1 of their adventure today, they expect to be home in July. Buon Camino.
The final approach down to Rome is along a 3 k cobblestone switchback trail. I have no doubt the design of this trail is designed to create a spiritual euphoria. Down, down down I walk literally bawling all the way. Thank goodness I’m alone! My Mother’s spirit was beside me all the way on this final stretch. She would have absolutely loved everything about this pilgrimage.
My gratefulness is completely overwhelming. Grateful for my health that allowed this old lady to make the hike. Grateful for my soul mate Ray, in my pocket this entire way encouraging me and keeping me company. Grateful for my friends who never once said “enough!” as I inundated their inboxes with photos. Grateful for my grandson and the videos he sent, encouraging his Granny along the way.
I met a group of three women here who were NOT enjoying a spiritual enlightenment. They are fighting! It was jarring and I let them go ahead of me to create distance. Now I’m grateful for having walked alone.
As I reach the city the streets get busier and busier. I have some 2 or 3 k of city walk to Vatican City and I join the throng of thousands of tourists. My heart is pounding and tears are still welled up in my eyes. Do these people around me see my emotion? Arriving is simply overwhelming.
The lineup to get into St. Peter’s Basilica is thousands long, but I just walk past everyone. Unlike arriving in Santiago after a Spanish Camino where everyone is a pilgrim, here I look quite unusual. In fact an American woman stops me to ask my story, then snaps a photo. After passing through the metal detector, I walk through the front doors of the Basilica, complete with backpack and poles. Standing in the centre of this amazing Cathedral, alone, accomplished, but mostly grateful I hand my phone to a stranger. The photo he snapped tells the story.
When I went to pick up my credential from the pilgrim office I met the octogenarian Norwegians and the quiet Brits. The office made a big fuss over me, because there are dozens not hundreds or thousands of pilgrims arriving today. My Via Francegina is over.
Exploring Rome
My hotel, Nerva Accommodation Cavour is in the neighbourhood of the Colosseum and about a 3 k walk from Vatican City. I had options to get there; bus, subway – but I chose to walk. It’s late afternoon by the time I start this last leisurely stroll of the day.
The buskers are out and are the best I’ve ever seen. There’s a fellow standing in the middle of construction amid noise of the street and the cranes and the jackhammers blasting Pink Floyd’s “I Wish You Were Here” on an electric guitar. Two blocks later a string quartet are entertaining a crowd with a backdrop of ancient Roman ruins. An opera singer stood on the corner near my building.
I’ve booked my room because it has a bath tub. I picked up a pizza and a bottle of wine. I filled the tub and called Ray. I ate in the tub and soaked for hours.
May 5
Ray had only one request of my solo travel this time. “Don’t go telling me you’ve seen Rome. We need to explore that city together.” With that in mind I spend today just walking. I took in every major site, but only from the outside.
My goal for Rome was to buy Italian leather boots but my neighbourhood is block after block of designer shops. I wouldn’t even step into any of them.
I’m tired today. I have an offer from the American couple Thomas and Sandy that I met on landing in Lucca on day 1 for a cocktail in a rooftop bar. That could have been a nice bookend to the trip but the guy can’t stop talking about American politics so I brushed him off. Not the vibe I’m looking for tonight. My one free night in Rome is spent, instead, in bed and in that big beautiful bathtub.
Meeting the Pope
My alarm is set for 4:30 AM. I’m going to see the Pope today. When in Rome…
Every Wednesday the Pope speaks in the Piazza San Pietro, St. Peter’s Square. I booked a spot months ago through Get Your Guide but don’t do that yourself. It cost me $85 CAD but there really is no admission. This exorbitant fee turns out to be just to guide you through the crowd, something I easily could have done myself. They herded us like sheep through expensive jewelry stores and cheesy souvenir shops. Once inside the square you are just turned loose to find your own seat.
Every Wednesday 100,000 people turn up to hear Pope Leo XIV speak. I kept bumping into fellow pilgrims. There were hugs all around. You get a lot of time to get to know your neighbours as we all arrived hours before the Pope.
When Pope Leo finally arrives, in a golf cart sort of affair it sure isn’t what I expected. I don’t know who picks his music but it’s eclectic and actually rather humorous. At one time he was driving around and waving to Abba blasting Dancing Queen from the speakers. It’s not somber AT ALL, more like a raucous party. They announce the presence of different groups, with cheering ensuing from said groups. One group was an IT convention, another some French nuns. He drives around and around us, getting to within metres of all of his 100,000 audience members. A fun time was had by all. Very unexpected experience.
Shopping
It’s time to off-load whatever euros I have left. I bought Talon a few souvenirs and a beautiful bag for myself that the vendor marked down by 300% to make the sale. I collect coffee mugs from my travels so that made it into my shopping bag today.
I’d given up on the Italian leather boots, but just as I was about to head home, there they were in the window of a hole in the wall shop beside the Vatican. The price was great, the size perfect. It was meant to be.
To bring them home I had to leave my worn out Hoka’s behind. They’ve carried me through two Camino’s now – Portugal and Italy, logging over 800 k and that doesn’t include the training in between. They are only rated to survive 600 k so saying good-bye was easy.
I set the alarm. Home tomorrow. Where to next?
