Portuguese Camino – the Spiritual Variant

September 17,  Day 11

Cesantes to Pontevedra -19 kms

Without these notes I don’t think I’d know where I was or what day it is. By now the Camino has eradicated all sense of time and space.

The very pleasant walk today started on the highway but the path quickly took me up to a forest trail. I was walking down into Pontevedra by noon, too early to check into my room. I dropped my pack in the  hotel’s storage room and logged an additional 5 k sightseeing. 

For the first time on this journey I had to squabble about the room they gave us. I booked a room with two beds and there’s only one small one. The receptionist spoke perfect English until I had a complaint, after which even the simplest phrases started to desert her. It wasn’t until I agreed that a cot would solve our problem that she suddenly found a room with two beds.

Fern and I had a fabulous last night together. She is off on her own adventure now – even she isn’t sure what. I learned a new Spanish word last night – medio. It means half. After draining our first glasses of wine at dinner we thought, “let’s just go halfers on one more.” Halfers to our waiter was like two full glasses of wine that he just charged half for. This turned out to be a fun game, and we were just a tad tipsy on our walk home through the evening streets of Pontevedra.

I couldn’t imagine a better hiking partner than Fern. I am continuing on alone from this point but I am really going to miss her company. 

September 18, Day 12

Pontevedra to Combarro – 12 kms

Fern and I lingered over breakfast in Pontevedra. I have a short day planned. Now that I’m alone the economy of scale has changed and I’m booking beds instead of rooms. I’ve found a beautiful hostel in Combarro, which turns out to be an adorable medieval seaside village. 

Just outside of the city of Pontevedra is an intersection. Turn right and join the masses of pilgrims walking the main trail to Santiago de Compostela, or turn left onto the much quieter Spiritual Variant or Variante Espiritual. I turned left. It is fitting to start my solo journey on the Spiritual Variant. Immediately it is stunningly beautiful, up and down and up again through paths and vineyards and small towns.

I checked into the hostel in Combarra and immediately put all of my clothes into the first washing machine I’ve seen out here. It promptly broke down, locking everything I own inside. It all turned out okay and by morning my clothes were clean, dry and repacked for the road ahead.

I hustled out for lunch because this is Spain so everything closes by 4 PM.  I ordered crab croquettes, a salad and something else I didn’t recognize but was delicious. The meal was washed down with an excellent glass of wine. Although my plans for the evening were to rescue my clothes and read my book, this beautiful town was calling me. Combarro at night is alive with busy shops and restaurants, and plenty of tourists to enjoy them.

Long bad ass day coming up tomorrow.

September 19, Day 13

Combarro to just past Os Castanos – 22 kms

Leaving my hostel before 7 AM, in the dark with a head lamp is reminiscent of my last Camino experience. I only left that early because the kitchen at the hostel was closed! I meant to have a couple of cups of coffee while waiting for daylight. I did have to stop at a picnic table at one point to wait for sunrise, as the road ahead was pitch black through a forest and my headlamp kept shutting off.

The first 10 or so kilometres of the day are up, all up. Sometimes it’s very steep and sometimes not so much, but up all the same. It’s noon before I find a cafe. It was an especially good tortilla and cafe con leche. Despite the difficulty, the walk this morning was gorgeous. The  steep climb out of Combarra passed vineyards, stone walls and medieval homes. The scenery behind me just got more beautiful every time I turned around to look (and catch my breath).  Because it was dark I could see the lights of the town growing further and further away below me, framed by the sea. Finally I left the main road and followed a gravel path through the forest for at least 5 km. The cafe I finally found is located at the Basilica in Armenteira, which is worth an exploration.

Just wow after lunch. Walked the spectacular Ruta da Pedra e de Auga. I was transported to hiking on Vancouver Island with rushing water, small water falls and a gorgeous trail. School kids were hiking, tours were walking and just a few pilgrims but mostly I was alone. Truly wonderful walk.

I finished my day walking along the river that had widened on one side and vineyards on the other. Pickers were harvesting the grapes.

My private room  is beautiful. I bought a bottle of wine and ate my left over tortilla Español for dinner and didn’t leave the room.

Although the walk today was only 22 kms it took me almost 9 hours to hike it.  That time reflects the difficulty and the beauty of this stretch of the Camino.

 

September 20, Day 14

Just past Os Castanos to Villanova de Arousa – 11 kms

Short day today of only 11 kms with no serious hills. I arrived on the outskirts of Villanova de Arousa by noon despite lingering in my room and stopping for a late coffee. The hotel I’ve picked, Hotel Dinijan looks much nicer than I expected considering the 25 euro rate for a private room. There’s even a beautiful pool but its too cold and wet even for me to swim. There is a little bar.

With my two hours to kill I did a blasphemous thing and went to Burger King, the only restaurant within walking distance. It was nothing to write home about – cold fries and some weird honey mustard sauce I presume was for those fries. I went to the grocery store and bought supplies for the big day tomorrow, a banana, tuna and a bag of mixed nuts. I then decided to curl up with my book on a comfie couch until my room was ready.

They let me in my room by 2 and it’s fabulous. I have a sea view and a bath tub! After a very long soak in that tub I went back to the grocery store and bought chorizo, cheese and a great small loaf of grainy bread – that was to be my supper. I need an early night so I had one (very large) glass of wine with my book in the lounge, ate my bocadillo and went to bed.

September 21 Day 15

Villanova de Arousa to Santiago de Compostella – 31 kms

Final push day and it is nothing if not dramatic. My day includes a hike to the marina, a 28 km boat ride along the Ulla River and then a long walk to Santiago de Compostela and the end of my Camino. Google had me walking over the ocean to get to my boat. I could not zoom in close enough to see a bridge. Trust the Camino – there was a beautiful walking bridge. I tried to get onto a nice big warm looking river boat but no, that was not for me. I had to wait another half hour before a little speed boat arrived. It is foggy and almost raining, in fact does start raining on the trip. My poncho is great works great. I met a man from Kelowna who snuggled under my poncho with me until the boatman loaned him own for himself.

The boat ride was fantastic. This is where Santiago’s body was brought up the river, and there are ancient crosses erected all along the way, on islands and the mainland. This morning they are enshrined with fog, adding drama to the journey.

Once we debarked about two kms outside of Padron there was nothing left to do but walk. I tried to set a good pace because it’s 10 am already and I still have 27 kms to go. The hills were gentle but plentiful, the small towns and countryside beautiful distractions. But it was not to remain so pleasant.

I dipped into a mall and found a laundromat to sit and charge my phone, because without it I am lost. When I came back out the sky had blackened and thunder was rumbling. I did not manage out walk the storm. I hid under a bridge with other pilgrims, none who spoke English while the worst of the lightening was striking, then I walked the final 6 kms in pouring rain.

My photo outside the cathedral says it all. Joy, relief, gratefulness. I met a friend from Pinawa Jacqueline Cafferty for wine, found my bed in my humble hostel, went out for excellent grilled veggies with goat cheese dinner and called it a day.

Another Camino finished.

The next morning I got my Compostela, which has become a very modern process with QR codes and electronic registration. I attended the pilgrim mass and had the good luck to catch the botafumeiro, the dramatic swinging incense vessel lit at the end of some masses.

Santiago has become quite touristy and one day here was enough for me.  Time to start heading home to Ray and Tucker.