Liard River Hot Springs
The Search for the Best Natural Hot Springs Continues ...
On the northern border of British Columbia, just steps from the Yukon border on the Alaskan Highway, are the Liard River Hot Springs. What brings us way up here? Our quest for adventure and the search for the best natural hot springs in Canada.
Our annual migration from our summer home in Pinawa to our winter home on Vancouver Island could be done in 2500 km. Instead we dawdled our way through over 5000 km.
If you are at that stage in life where you are just choosing a life partner, I’d suggest a test like this. If he passes he’s a keeper.
I am married to a reluctant traveler. We planned to leave Pinawa a bit earlier than usual this year because my heart strings were straining for the grandson who had just started kindergarten. Just before leaving town we discovered our condo building was under construction and our parking spot for The Ritz would not available when we arrived. There were many more obvious solutions to this problem than the one we chose.
I’d been reading about Liard for a while now. We usually stop at Halfway Hot Springs in the Kootneys, a wonderful spot but getting pretty busy these days. Everyone on my “Hot Springs of British Columbia” Facebook group agreed Liard were amazing, but really far away from everything. I knew Ray would balk, so I just casually mentioned our parking dilemma. Ray suggested leaving later, I suggested this little detour. Ray suggested just putting The Ritz directly into storage. One thing led to another and a week later we found ourselves taking photos at the Yukon border.
Liard River Hot Springs
https://bcparks.ca/liard-river-hot-springs-park/
Canada’s second largest hot springs (Fairmont being the largest) welcomes international travelers year round, most of them taking a break from the long road to or from Alaska. The springs are natural but the large soaking pool is well maintained with a change house and toilets available. Water temperature range from 42 to 52 degrees Celcius.
The pool is accessed via a fabulous 300 metre boardwalk trail that traverses through a warm water swamp and northern boreal forest. We didn’t see much wildlife, but others we met saw a moose wandering through at dusk. An early morning visit was positively spectacular as the surrounding forest was steaming in the sunrise.
The pool itself is huge, with little cold water waterfalls along the forest wall and a warm river to swim up that made me feel like I was living in an adventure movie.
Camping Facilities
There are about 50 unserviced camp spots available. Booking is available and probably necessary during the busy summer season. In mid-September we scored a fabulous site just steps from the boardwalk upon arrival. The price is ridiculous, $26 includes unlimited soaking – unless you’re a BC senior like us. Then it’s only $13.
When we were there a campfire ban was in effect, but our propane fire pit was allowed.
Wildlife
You ARE going to see wildlife on this trip so drive carefully. We felt a bit like we were on an African safari out there. We spotted elk, bears and buffalo all over the highway. Moose are commonly spotted too. The campground is surrounded by an electric fence because some of those bears could be grizzlies.
Getting There
These hot springs are located on kilometre 765 of the Alaskan Highway, about 200 kms southeast of Watson Lake, Yukon. Most of the people we met here were travelers from the Yukon or Alaska.
We turned north onto Highway 97 at Dawson Creek – Mile 0 of the Alaskan Highway. We passed through communities like Fort St. John and Fort Nelson.
Once Ray got into the whole 2500 km detour, he took it pretty seriously. Instead of heading home on the sensible route he decided we needed to explore highway 37 – a narrow, wild and remote highway. We found some absolutely amazing wild camping spots along here – wild camping among the moose and the grizzlies. We never saw anything dangerous, but I was a bit nervous on my Tucker walks.
We eventually hooked back into civilization and the Yellowhead Highway just north of Smithers BC.
It’s hard to say, and of course the search continues, but we may have found the most beautiful hot springs in Canada.
