I walked the Via Francigena in April 2026. The laptop did not make the weight cut during packing so these are notes I wrote while hiking. This is the first in a series of personal accounts of my pilgrimage.
Day 1 April 13th Lucca-Altopascio 20.6k
It’s Go Time! Finally, after all the planning, and talking and traveling it is time to start the walk.
I could really use a better sense of direction. I got so lost today I actually put myself in danger when I found myself walking beside Italy’s busiest highway in a pouring rain storm with lightening striking all around me. Not the most optimistic start to my big adventure.
I decided to take the variant route with the shortcut as described in my guidebook. The official route follows the road most of the day and the recommendation is actually to take the train and avoid this day all together, but the variant and short cut is quite a beautiful walk – if you can find it. There’s definitely a lack of signage. All was going relatively well until the military stopped me and sent me off through a farmer’s field.
Just as my phone buzzed with a weather alert (electrical storm heading my way), I came upon a couple of soldiers manning a check point. There was some sort of military operation going on and I could not pass. As I sat and waited I watched the sky turn darker and darker. Eventually the fellows got a call and I was directed to leave the path and walk through a farmer’s field. That was the last I saw of the route I should have been following. A couple of planes flew overhead as I slogged through the cornfield and a bunch of people jumped out of them. It was fun to watch but as the rain started pelting down I found myself completely lost with no recourse but to follow the highway and try to find my home for the night with google maps.
I arrived completely soaked and a little shaken by the dangerous highway trek, but to a most welcoming donativo, Ostello del Pellegrino – Foresteria La Pistacchia. My room had 6 beds but I was the only person staying in it tonight. I spread my wet clothes out on the comforting heater and left them to dry.
There were no English speaking people here tonight so dinner was a listening experience. The simple meal of pasta and chicken was delicious and served at a reasonable 7 PM. I could sort of figure out that the conversation was about the Via Francigena and how it is being developed and marketed. Even if I knew much about the subject, I do not yet have the courage to try and participate in an Italian conversation. A nice evening conversation with Ray, my evening his morning, was very welcome and no, I didn’t exactly let him know how stupidly dangerous my first day was.
Day 2 April 14 Altopascio – Fucecchia 22k
After a great breakfast of coffee, yogurt and toast I set off on Day 2 armed with the All Trails app that everyone else seems to be using. Although the signage improves now that I’m off the variant and I started to see a few more pilgrims, this app turned out to be essential for the rest of the walk. A couple of “Buon Caminos” warmed my heart and I bravely tried some simple Italian greetings. Baby steps.
My general goal for this trip is to tackle an average of 20k per day, and that’s what has me stopping here in Fuceccheo. The guidebook would have had me walk 9 more kilometres to San Miniato.
Fuceccheo was a bit of an odd town to be honest. I had a private room here right beside the main piazza. After my shower and laundry I ventured out to find some nosh. Although dinner isn’t usually served before 7 or 8 it is usually possible to at least find a place for a glass of wine. Not so here. I did find a well populated bar, but it didn’t appear as though anyone was actually being served. I gave it a try but an old toothless man took such a liking to me that I felt the need to leave. He, and he alone seemed to be able to secure drinks and was going to accommodate my needs but somehow I thought the price might be too high. I ended up finding some take out and had a quiet night in my room. The town may have woken up later. Italy does tend to do that.
Day 3 April 15 Fucecchia-Coiano 25.7k
The walk out of town left me with a much better flavour for this beautiful city. The route followed a tree-lined street, and then a river. I called Ray to say goodnight and we walked the route together for a few minutes.
After a couple of hours hike, the towers of San Miniota came into view ahead – way up high on a hill. The trail was quite flat until it wasn’t. The scenery is just stunning, and the trail is full of locals enjoying the climb. We start with gentle switchbacks that get progressively steeper. Eventually the climb into town turns into stairs and even an elevator (that was out of order). The view from the top is breathlessly beautiful.
The town is charming and I took my time here, sight seeing and taking photographs and videos.
The rest of my walk today is on natural trail through forests. I’m staying outside of town at a B&B called Casa Rossa. They say they are 600 m off the trail but are in fact 3 k away. Although they tell me I just missed the turn-off, the next morning proves them wrong. If you stay here, they are happy to offer you a lift and you might want to take them up on that.
The B&B was beautiful. The only other guest, Mary was American so I had someone to talk to. Dinner was an amazing authentic Italian meal. The two of us enjoyed a very nice evening. Unfortunately Mary is not enjoying the solitude of this trail as much as I am and has decided to quit and go visit her son in Rome instead. She was hoping for more pilgrims, while I was hoping for a quieter version of the Spanish Caminos.
Day 4 April 16 Coiano-San Gimignano 28k
Not a one of these 28k were flat today. It is hard to believe that this trail is even more beautiful than the days before. I find myself wondering if maybe I may have died and gone to heaven. I asked a friend if they would tell me if that were true, and he said “no, he was going to let me enjoy this.” That’s a good friend.
I walked through the town of Gambasi Termi today, past a million beautiful wineries, finally stopping at one for a refreshing glass of rosé. They didn’t even mind me taking my stinky shoes and socks off while I rested. A spattering of rain fell but all it did was paint the most beautiful rainbow on the next hill. I really do think I’m walking through heaven.
My goal for today is to finish my walk before Ray wakes up back home. He seems to be worried about me if he wakes up and finds me still moving. I should have been exhausted after 28k of up-hills all day but instead I arrived to the beautiful town of San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage site, with energy to burn. I stopped for a cold beer in the lively piazza before even looking for my room.
After a quick shower and sock wash I headed out to explore the town. I dined with a young woman who is running the same trail I am walking – German of course. After dinner she dragged me off for my first gelato of the trip. Won’t be my last. Oh man, I really am in heaven! It just might be that my endorphins have kicked into the point of euphoria – a state I’d like to stay in in perpetuity.
I never do find gelato quite as good as the one served in the award winning Gelateria in San Gimignano, but I spend the rest of my time in Italy looking, and tasting.
