Welcome to the second installment of notes from my journal of my April 2026 Via Francigena pilgrimage. I’m enjoying reliving the experience.
Day 5 San Gimignano-Colle di Val d’Elsa 14 km
I walked out of the beautiful medieval city of San Gimignano with a pack on my back, poles in one hand and a gelato cone in the other. My thoughts this morning? “If I ever get Alzheimer, may this be one memory I never lose.”
Before I broke free from the walls I was stopped by a tour guide. She asked me to tell her small group of American tourists about my walk. I was happy too.
It’s Friday today and the locals are out. I met 5 Irish women, four of them nurses and we enjoyed a mid trail break in a bar over ice cold rosè and antipasto.
Ostello Cartiera La Buca, my bed for the night has a washing machine and a clothes line laid out in the hot Tuscan sun. Now everything I own is clean and dry. The place is deserted when I got here, but full of local Italians starting their weekend treks by the time I got back from dinner. I slept well in the company of all these strangers.
Day 6 Colle di Val d’Elsa – Monteriggeioni Valle 14 km
Wow! Just wow! That’s a direct quote from my journal. Today’s walk out of town is along the river Elsa. I cross the river several times, on large stepping stones. There are little waterfalls, mossy trees and old men fishing that make me feel like I’m back on Vancouver Island. Cappuccino and focaccia await me when finally I emerge from this serene path.
The rest of the day follows country roads through picturesque vineyards. Monteriggeioni is the prize of the day, but I couldn’t find reasonable accommodations there. I have learned to book further ahead on weekends. This is primarily a locally used path. That doesn’t mean I don’t have lots of time, and inexplicably a lot of energy to explore the town as I pass through.
Monteriggeioni is, like every other Italian town, at the top of a steep hill. Lunch is on my mind as I walk through the gates of the city, particularly pizza and beer, but it seems I have found the only city in all of Italy that does not make pizza. Ensalada mixt with a glass of chilled white wine will have to do. I’m actually kind of happy to explore and leave this little hamlet. It’s too early to stop and very touristy.
7 kilometres further, through forest and farmland, amid horses, sheep, mules and dogs hard at work in the fields, I arrive at my home for the night, Punta Sosta La Villa. I think this could very honestly be called a farm stay and it is gorgeous. The host keeps a carafe of wine constantly full all evening long. My room is private, bathroom down the hall.
The evening dinner was truly delicious. The farmer was obviously proud of his culinary skills as well as his produce. We had a stew that may have simmered all day, pasta of course and for dessert a biscotti with port to dip it in, home made of course. Although everyone staying here is Italian, I am getting a little better with communication. Possibly the never empty wine carafe helped. One woman had been studying English with Duolingo and we laughed till we cried at how bad that app is for actually learning a language.
You may by now be wondering how I’ve been finding these fantastic places to stay each night. I have been booking two days out. My main source for information is the app Camino Ninja. It has a great planning feature that lists several accommodations along with either a phone number or email address. Booking.com has also proved to be quite useful, even for shared spaces. Finally I’m carrying the Cicerone Guidebook that includes recommendations with contact info. So far I’ve not had to actually phone anyone for a reservation. I am a bit terrified of that prospect. I use Google translate to text on Whatsapp or email what I’m looking for, but actually having to speak and understand Italian replies will be difficult.
Day 7 Monteriggioni Valle- Siena 15 km
Everyone tells me Siena is a prize. I’m looking forward to it. I’ve walked almost 140 kms so far. It’s a beautiful Sunday here in Italy and the locals are out in droves. Pilgrims, hikers, cyclists and horse back riders share my path today. The way is a combination of country roads and forest paths. Today’s 15 kms feels like a quick jaunt.
I walked through the port of Siena just as the church bells chimed noon, as if they were welcoming me. Check-in at the Hotel La Perla is 2 PM but when I messaged them of my early arrival they replied “Your room will be ready in 10 minutes.” Google told me the walk would take 11 minutes. How do you know when you’re on the right track?
My room is a tiny private affair in a centuries old building in the heart of old town Siena. After a luxurious shower and some sink laundry I head out to explore this Unesco World Heritage city. First stop the gelataria.
While buying tickets for the Duomo – I know, should be free for pilgrims – I meet a couple from my last stay on the farm. It’s always a comfort to see familiar faces. This world famous Cathedral is absolutely amazing and it takes me several hours to explore it all. Wine and pizza in the famous Piazza del Campo rounds out my day here.
